Unastan: Buzkashi, Rougher than Politics

16.04.10

Categorie: Afghanistan, Una in Afghanistan, Una Moore |
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Buzkashi

Buzkashi. Una Moore photo.

by UNA MOORE

The only peaceful activity in Afghan society rougher than politics is buzkashi, Afghanistan’s national sport. Buzkashi is vaguely reminiscent of polo, but instead of a ball, players on horseback vie for a headless calf or goat carcass.

I had the opportunity to see part of a buzkashi match earlier this month when my housemate H needed to deliver computers to a village school in Panjshir, one of Afghanistan’s northern provinces, for the NGO he works for. Having been confined to Kabul for two months, I jumped at the chance to see more of the country. On the way back to Kabul, H and I spotted a buzkashi match in progress in a dirt field across a river from Panjshir’s main paved road.

We climbed down a steep incline to a small footbridge and gingerly made our way across. Afghan women don’t typically attend buzkashi matches, and few expats are permitted to venture beyond their offices and guesthouse nowadays, so the spectators stared at me.

I took my camera out and started photographing the riders and their horses. H coaxed a shy pre-teen player into posing for me. As I crouched to get a shot of hooves kicking dust into the blue sky, a horse rode up in my blind spot and side-swiped me. I slid against the dusty hill and my camera flew out of my hands. The spectators roared with laughter.

Luckily, no damage was done — to me or my camera. I laughed too, and left Panjshir a little while later with a few bruises and some great shots of my trip.

Buzkashi

Buzkashi. Una Moore photo.

Buzkashi

Buzkashi. Una Moore photo.

Related:
Unastan: Kabul Nightlife, Not All Bombs and Illegal Booze
Unastan: People Died Here
Unastan: Waking to Bombs in Kabul
Unastan: Afghanistan’s Amnesty Law
Unastan: Taliban Blocks Civilian Flight
Unastan: The Situation (in Afghanistan)
Unastan: The Roads of Kabul

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3 Responses to “Unastan: Buzkashi, Rougher than Politics”

  1. I am familiar with buzkashi, and you are stretching the definition of “peaceful.”

    I have been told that knives were allowed to be carried by the players until the 1920s.

  2. FooMan says:

    Not that it would have been in any way and an accurate representation but Stallone played buzkashi in the third Rambo movie. It did however seem to get the violence and action in there.
    Foo

  3. sonny amin says:

    Check out Ox Game USA .

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